Gallipoli - 12 March

We packed our bags, said a relieved farewell to the Conrad Hilton, and boarded the coach. Leaving Istanbul we drove through Turkey's rural countryside to the site of the disastrous Allied Forces landing in 1915 at what is now called ANZAC Cove, Gallipoli. The landscape at Gallipoli has steep cliffs virtually coming off the beach and yet only kilometres away, the land is far more forgiving. There is ongoing debate as to the reasoning behind choosing such an inhospitable place to land the troops and as we well know the overall campaign saw the loss of over 100,000 soldiers with losses for both the Allied Forces and Turks, of which the landing at ANZAC Cove contributed far too high a percentage. We are pleased that we have now visited the sight as it is obviously a place of pilgrimage for both Australians, News Zealanders and Turks alike. Allambee, our tour guide, was well versed in the cultural impact that this military campaign has had for those nations involved and his account of the respect between the ANZACs and Turks was moving.

It was also interesting to hear how this campaign built on the eventual popularity of the man considered to be the father of the modern Turkish state, Ataturk. There are as many Turks visiting the sight as there are other nationalities.

The Turkish countryside is being prepared for spring planting of crops. What little trees dot the areas we passed; have yet to spring into life with foliage. This gives the land a lifeless and not so attractive appearance. The buildings that you see throughout the country do not help this unattractive look as a high percentage live in apartments and these stick out like 'pimples on a bum' in the landscape. Our tour guide told us that people can build a home without a building license which can be granted at a later date. Turkish families traditionally design their homes to be extended upwards to provide a home for their adult children (Yes, not only do Turkish children continue to live with their parents into adulthood, they build a home above them). Turkish homes often remain partially incomplete as the owner of an incomplete home is not required to pay property tax.

We were also fascinated by the scenes of horse drawn carts sitting comfortably next to cars and trucks at traffic light intersections. There were also plenty of shepherds with their flocks of sheep working the grassed areas between fields.

After Gallipoli we crossed the Dardanelles by ferry at a place called 'The Narrows' and settled in to a hotel in the town of Canakkale. Dinner was anotehr over the top feast of numerous Turkish dishes both cold and hot. I didn't hold back tasting as much as I could but kept to very small portions.